Hunting Knife Steel: The harder the better? Some Thoughts…

I hear some of my hunting friends complaining that their hunting knife steel is too soft, and can’t even gut a deer without re-sharpening. Others complain that their steel is too hard to sharpen, and once dull, the hunter can’t get an edge after trying several times. Sharpening without some basic skills, can be frustrating.

Some folks are buying those razor blade insert knives, they do work well on big game until dull, then another insert you dependent on. 

I don’t own one, perhaps because I am a traditionalist by nature and don’t like being dependent. I just love the look of a good knife, handle, and well made leather sheath. Like this Damascus hunter-skinner knife I built. 

 

So here are some thoughts for those of you that want woodsmanship sharpening skills on traditional knives…or on your traditional broadheads. 

The truth is, that it is the skill of the person doing the sharpening that matters most. Consistency of angle is key, with the correct type of stone matched to the hardness and composition of your blade steel.

It was Vince Lombardi of Football Coach fame that said; Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect.

Choose a knife with a bit lower Rockwell hardness (HRC) and steel composition or read up on your blade composition to best sharpen it. Stainless 400 series steel such as 440 C ( carbon)  is a great pick as it is often in the range of 57 to 59 HRC and easily sharpened. Stainless cleans up easy as well. D2 “tool steel” is great for holding an edge, yet a bit harder to re-sharpen. I have a D2 Skinner blade coming, so I can test it against 440C and see how they re-sharpen. 

Modern knife steel such as S90V or steels which have lots of Vanadium (the V in the formula) really hold an edge but are very difficult to sharpen.   Damascus steel, like 1095 folded with 15N20 is perhaps 56 to 58 HRC and readily sharpened in the field.  I own 2 beautiful Damascus knives and they are fine with a thin layer of oil, and they gut and skin very well on a single deer. Just remember to wash them and re-oil and hone (touch up) after use. 

If you do have a knife that does not take an edge on an Arkansas like Sharpening stone, or a wet stone, try a diamond stone. Better yet, a Lansky type diamond sharpener kit for 80 dollars or so. , The key is that it maintains the correct angle. Most blades are sharp after 600 grit. If you desire to begin to polish a keener edge, 800 and 1000 grit is all you need. I go to 1000 grit with both wet stones and diamond impregnated stones and stop there. Use a leather strop to clean the burrs off.

 Deluxe Knife Sharpening System Kit

 If a large hunting knife is going to do camp chores with wood then you are already setting your self up for disappointment when hunting unless you take the time to re-sharpen it right after splitting kindling wood.  A second sharp skinning knife is better for easily dressing a deer. A ceramic honing rod, like the one below, helps maintain the edge, whether chopping or skinning. 

 

Arkansas-Superstick-Large-Heavy-Duty-Ceramic-Rod-Knife-Sharpener-Wood-Handle

The angle many experts consider best for a hunting knife is 15 to 20 degrees on each side. The 20 degree edge will handle tougher camp jobs than a 15 degree edge, but for just gut and skinning, a 12 to 15 degree edge is sharper. If you have a 15 degree edge then stroke the full  blade a couple of times on the ceramic, and a bit more than 15 degrees of angle to ensure that you honed the edge. 

To establish a new angle, expect to spend a lot more time honing (consistently).   Further, that sharpening to a razor edge, often requires that you establish a burr edge on one full side (you can feel the burr by rubbing your fingers away from the edge)  and then work the burr thinner on the other side with a stone and then a leather strop to clean off the burr. Test for sharpness by cutting a piece of paper. I sometimes use the skin of a tomato. Rest the knife blade on the tomato and if it cuts in less than 1/2 inch of a soft slicing motion then your good to go. If you want to shave your arm hair, ( I don’t recommend it) just be very careful. One last good sharpness test is to gently rest the edge on your thumbnail, if it bites in, it is very sharp.

Good Hunting!

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This entry was posted in Big Game Hunting, Hunting thoughts, Knives by Ed Hale. Bookmark the permalink.

About Ed Hale

I am an avid hunter with rifle and Bow and have been hunting for more than 50 years. I have taken big game such as whitetail deer, red deer, elk, Moose and African Plains game such as Kudu, Gemsbok, Springbok, Blesbok, and Impala and wrote an ebook entitled African Safari -Rifle and Bow and Arrow on how to prepare for a first safari. Ed is a serious cartridge reloader and ballistics student. He has earned two degrees in science and has written hundreds of outdoor article on hunting with both bow and rifle.