Here in the Northeast we have had our share of ground soaking rain but in between rain storms, I went out and purchased a Savage semi-auto A22 rifle.  I can have more shooting fun at a lower cost for range time, practice, and just plain fun. Over the years, I kept a good supply of .22 ammo on hand. 

I like this rifle because it has all the physical attributes of a big game rifle such as a heavy button rifled barrel, a great looking high-cheek stock and an easily adjustable AccuTrigger.

My club sponsors an Aspirin Shoot (3/8″ size) that I have yet to participate.

Most shoot bolt actions for supreme accuracy but my new Savage Semi-Auto is shooting 1/2 inch 5 shot groups at 50 yards out-of-the-box with CCI MiniMags.  

Below first shot was high with some lube residue in the barrel. but a nice tight group for the other 4 shots at 50 yards. I expect to do better with time on the range, and testing out .22 match grade ammo. 

Today with the right rifle and ammo you can reach out to far off targets, predators and small game. Many ,22lr folks are getting serious about target shooting and like the supreme accuracy of a bolt action, I do too, but have yet to find a rifle I like for the price. 

Most all .22lr ammo I own shoot as good, better, best in this rifle but CCI .22LR Mini-Mags shoot best for my first day with the A22 at the range. 

Gun Issues I Found

Slide Bar bolt came off. Savage sending a new one. 

Clip loads very slow due to strong spring. 

Clip sometimes binds and will not easily fall out.

AccuTrigger has some creep.

If you are buying for a competitive shoot and expect to win, this gun is not for you.

But for otherwise hunt and plink, it has very good accuracy, it is fun at a low cost of around $500 for rifle.

Those who want to win at competitive 22lr shoots are spending at least $1000 to $5000 on gun and scope or even much more.

When Hornady and Ruger collaborated in 2007 to create the .375 Ruger cartridge, they also in future-sight, perhaps knowingly, or not, modernized many yet-to-be named magnum calibers such as the new PRC’s. 

The .375 Ruger cartridge has no belt, no taper, larger case capacity, and a larger shoulder with which to set headspace than the .375 Holland and Holland Magnum. 

I remember reading an article by Jon Sundra in 2011 below about future 7mm, .300 and other calibers that could come from this .375 Ruger collaboration.

https://www.rifleshootermag.com/editorial/ammunition_rs_wildcatting_200806/83581

Did you know that the 7mm PRC and .300 PRC cartridges are children of the .375 Ruger cartridge?

And likely more will come. 

Will they replace magnums? Time will tell.

For nearly a century, many commercial magnum calibers had a belt to set headspace because they were based upon their parent cartridge case, the famed .375 Holland and Holland Magnum created in 1912.

For decades, the H&H Magnum case availability made it easy for industry to reform the case for smaller diameter “magnum” calibers like the famed 7mm Remington Magnum.

I own the .375 Ruger and love it. But it is a magnum cartridge, without saying so, perhaps like the 416 Rigby. I still like the “Magnum” moniker however. 

But the .375 H&H Magnum cartridge will likely not go away and will not for many decades to come. There are far more .375 H&H Magnum rifles in Africa and world-wide today, thus the brass case will remain in mainstream manufacture for many decades.

And the .375 H&H Magnum still has a mystique-like following in Europe and Africa as a dangerous game round up to and including elephant.

So why create a beltless “magnum” case and drop the magnum moniker?

The .375 Ruger’s brass case seen above, removed the belt, case taper and gave a better shoulder in which to set headspace.

Is that enough, to eventually replace the .375 H&H Magnum case?

Replacing the 7mm Rem Mag and 300 Winchester Magnum whose parent case in the .375 Holland and Holland Magnum will be daunting as the belt does not bother me for head space.

Accuracy and energy in my Browning X-Bolt Speed 7mm Remington Magnum, when hand loaded with 175 g bullets, achieves the same energy as the 7mm PRC factory loaded cartridge but the PRC may edge out the 7mm Mag for long range target accuracy and use heavier bullets.

I shoot sub-moa with my 7 magnum.

As a hunter, that is more accuracy than I need. And if I want a heavier hunting bullet I would go to a 30 caliber.

I, for one, like the manly term “Magnum”. And I hand load the 7mm Remington Magnum with great success and accuracy for hunting big game. 

Target shooters will likely migrate to the 7mmPRC and 300PRC  for very long range target shooting but in very heavy rifles to reduce recoil. 

The hunting community will perhaps move much slower as we do love our 7mm Rem Mag’s for long range hunting accuracy and delivered energy.

And case components and rifles for the 7mm and 300 win magnums are on the shelves world-wide right now. Not next year or so. I am older and can’t wait my friends. 

In five years more PRC rifles and components may change that dynamic. We shall see.

In the meantime, I am happy with my 7mm magnum rifle for hunting all North American big game species. 

Good Shooting

© Copyright 2023

I ran into a friend who shot a doe with spitzer type muzzleloader bullet. The deer ran hundreds of yards before dropping. And he recovered the bullet, which never mushroomed to deliver killing energy.

I advocate for semi-spitzers with rounded nose, round/flat nose or hollow point bullets for muzzleloaders that deliver sufficient energy to open/ mushroom the bullet. 

Do your homework and read up.

Avoid spitzer styles that are difficult to open and mushroom.

Most shots are taken at 40 to 60 yards and do not need sharply pointed bullets. 

You will be glad you changed bullets. I like a 300 grain semi-spitzer/hollow point for my 50 cal.  and at least 100 grains of pyrodex. 

Some examples of better mushrooming bullets.

Now is the time to shop!

I avoid sharp sleek pointed bullets that are not designed to readily expand. 

Good Shooting!

Not finding your favorite powder for sale?  This chart can help find powders closest to yours. I did that with my alternative to Reloader 22 and found Viht N560 and it worked great. Nosler listed it in their manual. 

Reloading safety is of prime importance thus you must begin a new powder at starting loads and work up. The internet should give some start load data sources if you search your caliber and alternative powders.

All reloading manuals list alternative powders but there are some older reloading manuals that are not current in new state-of-the-art powders. 

IMR published a burn rate chart PDF below and includes many brands.

Check it out.

https://imrpowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/burnratecolor.pdf

Removing the two mounting bolts, you can pop out the barrel and action with some finagling and prying. It is a tight fit. 

Here is the Timney Trigger below.

Below there are 2 pins that hold the trigger in the half moon cutouts in the barrel. Use a 1/16 punch to remove the two pins and the trigger will come off. 

The part I did not expect is that the Timney did not just drop in. The forward slot was too narrow to fit in the half moon cutout. I had to grind off a few thousandths from the trigger housing to widen the slot with a Dremel tool. 

Below you can see my Dremel tool that I used to grind the forward pin housing a bit. Took me 20 minutes to grind and fit it. Not overly hard with the right tool. Some triggers drop in to those slots in videos. 

Below is the Timney trigger installed. The whole process took me about an hour or less.

I put my Lyman Trigger test gauge on the Timney and as expected it measured 3 pounds almost. Two pounds fifteen point nine ounces. I tested again at 3 pounds exact. Test the safety slide to be sure it works. Mounting bolts need torque to 35 inch-lbs.

Below is a video that helped me.

Good Shooting.

©Copyright 2023 

Decades ago, I started out by shooting a few boxes of .270 Winchester ammo and kept the brass. This once fired ammo case is a great start to reload. But you need dies to reform brass, add a primer, powder and press the bullet.

For me, reloading is the ultimate satisfaction of doing-it-yourself like DIY.

Like chipping a broadhead from a piece of stone and killing game by your own hand as our ancestors did is the ultimate in satisfaction. 

The component of a cartridge requires a brass case to hold the powder, primer and bullet.

The brass needs to be “resized” in reloading dies, spent primer removed and replaced (left die) and a bullet seating die (right).

 But new brass can be purchased too. See image below.

A reloading press and dies are essential. There are several companies who cater to reloaders.

A basic bottle-neck die set consists of two dies, one to resize the case and another to press the bullet into the case. See Photo above.

Every cartridge caliber needs its own die set. Die set costs to load for hunting typically cost less than $70.00 for a set.

Reloading for long distance hunting and shooting can be more exacting and cost much more. Like this Redding Die Set with micrometer bullet seating.

I had my first Savage .270 Winchester and loaded it with an RCBS Press and dies 40 years ago.  I use it to this day and saved untold dollars and Did-It-Myself…to my great satisfaction. I hunted Africa with my custom loads.

The key to good reloading technique is to read reloading manuals and guides, watch reloading video’s on you-tube. Listen and pay attention to areas of safety. Inspect your brass and spent primers for gas leaks, case damage of older brass. RCBS offers a free downloadable reloading guide.

https://www.rcbs.com/rcbs-downloadable-guide.html

Companies like Nosler, Hornady, Speer, Lyman, and several others sell reloading manuals. My two favorite manuals are Nosler and Hornady. Don’t forget all the videos on the web. 

Check-it-Out